Tag: sewing

DIY WOODLAND NURSERY CURTAINS

Learn how to easily make DIY woodland nursery curtains. Perfect for any nursery with the optimal balance between light filtering and blackout curtains.


This post contains affiliate links used to help support The Bluebonnet Farmhouse. For more information, please see my disclosures here.


Let’s just start off with what might be a controversial topic. Blackout curtains in a nursery, or no?

How about we meet in the middle and get the best of both worlds!

My logic was, if my son can fall asleep in the car or stroller with the sun blaring, then he should be capable of falling asleep in a semi-dark room with blinds and curtains. The goal was to have curtains that darkened the room some in hopes of helping make nap time a little easier, but also let in just enough light so that our son would not grow accustomed to only being able to sleep in a pitch black room.

Some may say that the blackout curtains help little ones to nap during the day or sleep longer in the mornings and not be woken up by the sun… if only that were true. Three years later and our son still wakes up like clock work no matter how late he stayed up or if the sun is still sleeping.

Seeing as how I have a slight obsession with flannel and it is a heavy weight fabric that could work great for curtains, I decided to try it out. I have never seen nor heard of flannel curtains, but that didn’t stop me from giving it a go and I am so glad it didn’t!

The flannel fabric ended up being the best choice for our woodland nursery curtains! Not only are is the pattern adorable, but the fabric provides the optimal balance between light filtering and blackout curtains. The curtains are heavy and dark enough to block most of the light, but the lighter portions of the flannel allowed for subtle filtered light to peak through.

These DIY woodland nursery curtains were the finishing touch and beautifully framed our woodland nursery signs.

The curtains are designed to provide two different ways of hanging – a rod pocket or clip rings.

VARIATIONS OF THIS PROJECT:

  • Add tabs to the back for a different hanging option.
  • Customize the appliques with a different animal, flowers, trees, etc.
  • Keep it simple and skip the appliques.

SUPPLIES

  • Flannel Fabric (the amount needed for the desired height and number of panels)
  • Drop Cloth
  • Bear Applique
  • Paper
  • Thread
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • Pins
  • Iron
  • Sewing Machine

If you would like to use a Cricut for the bear applique pattern:

HOW TO MAKE DIY WOODLAND NURSERY CURTAINS:

MEASURE AND CUT FABRIC

Begin by laundering and ironing all fabric to be used for the curtains.

All of the bedrooms in our base housing were on the second floor, which had 8′ ceilings. With that being said, I custom made these curtains to be hung by clip rings and not gathered on the floor. Therefore, my curtains are 92″ (7’8″) long.

The full width of the fabric was used to determine the curtain width. In my case, the width was 44″ based off of the flannel fabric used.

All measurements stated in this tutorial are based off of this length and width (44″ x 92″). Simply add or subtract some fabric to either the drop cloth or flannel portion to get the length that works for your space.

Measure and cut 81″ panels from the main fabric – I used flannel.

Measure and cut 44″ x 15″ pieces from the drop cloth. You will only need one for each curtain panel.

Since our son’s nursery had two windows, I cut four pieces of both the flannel and drop cloth.

Iron all of the fabric pieces to be used. Next, fold over the top 3″ of the drop cloth and iron down. This is going to create the rod loop for the curtains.

BEAR APPLIQUE

There are two ways to cut out your bear appliques:

  • print and cut the pattern from the computer
  • or cut a pattern using a Cricut.

Once you have the bear patterns cut out of paper, lay them on the leftovers of your main fabric and cut out one of each bear for each curtain panel. Again, I had four panels so I needed four of each bear – papa, mama, and baby.

Pin the bears onto the drop cloth and stitch around each using the overcasting stitch on your machine. I recommend doing a test stitch to see what size stitch width and length you like for this application.

SEW THE MAIN PIECE

Instead of a true hem, I chose to leave frayed edges around the curtains.

Using the straight stitch, sew 1/4″ from the edges around the main fabric. Slightly fray the fabric all around.

SEW THE HEADER

Pin the top of the main fabric to the bottom of the drop cloth on the backside with a 1″ overlap.

Drop cloth has a tendency to fray easier than other fabrics. Because of this, I elected to sew 1/2″ away from the edges to allow for any excess fraying to take place.

Using a decorative stitch and a contrasting thread color, sew 1/2″ from the edges around the drop cloth. Again, I recommend doing a test stitch to see what size stitch width and length you like for this application.

My decorative stitching is 1/4″ wide with the outer edge being 1/2″ away from the edge of the drop cloth.

Make sure to sew along the bottom of the rod pocket (3″ fold over) and not the top edge. Slightly fray the fabric all around.

Use clip rings or the rod pocket to hang your beautiful new curtains.


Simple, right?! I have to admit, I was nervous to try and take on the task of sewing curtains. Due to the fact that curtains consist of very large pieces of fabric and are a focal point in a room, I really didn’t want to mess them up. Thankfully, they ended up being incredibly easy and the hardest part was measuring out the long panels to make sure the pattern wasn’t crooked.

We have enjoyed these curtains hanging in our son’s nursery for the last three years, and my hope is that you can do the same with yours!

MORE DIY NURSERY PROJECTS:

Thank you so much for stopping by! Happy Sewing!

We wanna see those sewing skills! Comment below or tag us on social media to share your curtains with us!

Filed under: BEDROOM, BEDROOM + BATHROOM, NURSERYTagged with: , , , , ,

HOW TO MAKE A HOT WATER BOTTLE COVER

Learn how to make a hot water bottle cover and keep your feet warm under the covers during the chilly winter months!

how to make a hot water bottle cover, free sewing pattern and tutorial

This post contains affiliate links used to help support The Bluebonnet Farmhouse. For more information, please see my disclosures here.


During the winter months, my grandma loves to keep warm under the covers by placing her hot water bottle near her feet. She decided it would be nice to have a cover for her hot water bottle and asked if I could make one for her birthday.

With that being said, this hot water bottle cover makes a wonderful handmade gift! I paired it with another handmade gift for her birthday!

My grandma wasn’t sure how she wanted it to look, but figured a simple rectangle and drawstring would work. However, I couldn’t resist making it pretty for her! I shaped the cover to be a comfortable snug fit and hand embroidered it with none other than bluebonnets (rather my attempt at bluebonnets!).

When she asked me to do this project, I went to Pinterest for some inspiration. There is where I found a picture of a fitted, hand embroidered cover, but no pattern or tutorial on how to accomplish it. So I made my own.

After one failed attempt, which resulted in a cover that was too small, I managed to come up with a pattern that fits perfect and extremely cozy!

how to make a hot water bottle cover, free sewing pattern and tutorial

SUPPLIES

  • 1/3 Yard of Fleece
  • Thread
  • Pins
  • Embroidery Needle
  • Embroidery Thread
  • Fabric Scissors
  • Measuring Tape, Yards Sticks, or Acrylic Ruler
  • Pen + Paper (I used brown wrapping paper)
  • Sewing Machine
  • Hot Water Bottle

HOW TO MAKE A HOT WATER BOTTLE COVER:

Begin by tracing your hot water bottle cover onto some paper. Use whatever you have: wrapping paper, parchment paper, poster board, etc.

Add 3/4 inches around the body of the water bottle and draw the new cut line. This allows for some possible excess of fabric that you can reduce later if needed.

I ended up needing to remove a little bit of length off the bottom of the cover by simply sewing a new seam in the desired location and trimming off the excess. After my first failed attempt, I wanted to play it safe and have too much fabric to work with rather than too little.

For ease of use, I chose to keep the spout accessible by extending the neck of the cover just passed the neck of the hot water bottle to ensure the bottle is hidden. This way she could fill the bottle, refill later with fresh hot water, and let the inside air dry – all while still staying inside the cover!

For the neck of the bottle, draw a line down the center of the pattern and measure out a 6.25 inch wide by 3.25 inch long rectangle (measurements may vary depending on the bottle). This includes 1/2 inch seam for the top opening. Start the rectangle from where it intersects with the 3/4 inch line drawn previously.

Sticking with the most comfortable route possible, I designed this cover to function like a pillow sham. There are two flaps on the backside that overlap – allowing for the hot water bottle to be easily placed inside and concealed without the need of any closure device.

Draw two lines where you want the pillow case opening to lay. I chose to place my lines at the 3 inch and 5 inch marks from the intersection drawn previously. This allows for 1/2 inch seams and 1 inch overlap of the opening.

how to make a hot water bottle cover pattern

Trace and cut the three pieces of fabric: the front piece, top flap, and bottom flap. Remember to pair the 5 inch cut line with the top flap and the 3 inch cut line with the bottom flap.

SEW THE OPENINGS

Using the overcasting stitch, fold the seams at each opening over 1/2 inch and sew the raw edge down. This will need to be done at the back and top openings.

overcasting stitch seam at pillow case opening

SEW THE COVER

Pin the three pieces together inside out in this order: front piece, top flap, and bottom flap placed on top.

Sew 3/8 inch seam around with reinforcement stitches at the top opening and on both seams located at the pillow case opening on the back. This is to help reinforce the seams that might be getting tugged on while placing the bottle inside the cover.

I normally sew 1/4 seam around, but I recommend doing closer to a 3/8 inch seam when using thick plush fabric such as fleece. I simply found it easier to work with while feeding the fabric through the machine.

overcasting and reinforcement stitch at openings

Lastly, I chose to sew overcasting stitches in the same areas as the reinforcement stitching to help cinch the fabric of the seams for a cleaner, thinner, and more finished appearance. You could choose to sew the overcasting stitch all the way around.

Turn right side out and the sewing of the cover is complete!

DECORATE THE COVER

When it came to the design, I chose to decorate the cover using only embroidery thread to keep with the comfortable feel. I didn’t want to add buttons, Velcro, beads, etc in order to keep the cover plush and practical.

All you need to embroider the cover is an embroidery needle, some embroidery thread, and a design in mind.

I chose to do a design true to our Texas nature and embroidered a couple bluebonnets onto the cover – one for her, one for me. Then added two decorative stripes at the neck of the cover to create some visual interest and division between the body and the neck of the cover.

I used split stitching for a slightly more intricate look rather than the basic running stitch. Split stitching looks just like it sounds – a stitch splitting another stitch.

how to embroider with split stitch

Tie a knot at the end of the thread, place a stitch into the fabric, stick the needle through the thread just below the knot, and pull the remainder of the thread through to make a loop. I like to do this method for knotting to ensure the knot cannot get pulled through the fabric.

For split stitching: thread one stitch forward, thread needle one-third of the ways back into the previous stitch, and pull the thread through to split the stitch. Repeat.

Once your design is complete, tie off the thread and weave the tail of the thread back through a couple of stitches to secure.

My best advice is to knot your thread and simply start stitching! I went into this project without a game plan and do not have much experience at all with hand embroidery. Needless to say, it took a good three attempts at stitching these bluebonnets to come up with a design that I loved. Third times a charm, right?

I am very happy with how it turned out once finished! I do wish the bluebonnets were off to the left a little bit more, but I’m choosing not to sweat the details for the first time in my life.

how to make a hot water bottle cover, free sewing pattern and tutorial

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Filed under: BATHROOM, BEDROOM, BEDROOM + BATHROOMTagged with: , ,

HOW TO MAKE A BATHROOM CURTAIN

how to make a bathroom curtain

Learn how to sew a bathroom curtain the easy way! A simple way to add privacy with one curtain panel and one hemline.

how to make a bathroom curtain, how to hem a curtain, diy bathroom curtain

This post contains affiliate links used to help support The Bluebonnet Farmhouse. For more information, please see my disclosures here.


When it comes to a bathroom, privacy is preferred and a giant window tends to contradict that preference. The abundance of natural light is appreciated, but the lack of privacy is not.

My grandma has this beautiful rain textured glass window in her bathroom, which is technically intended for privacy, but falls below her comfort level. She wanted to add a curtain that would still allow natural light to come through without feeling her neighbors can see her!

There was one problem… any bathroom windows are not standard windows and do not have compatible curtains to go with them.

She found a curtain on the clearance rack for just $5 and it was the right size to fit the width of the window. The only thing needing to be done was to shorten the curtain panel – a lot. That’s where I come in.

how to make a bathroom curtain

She asked if I could hem the curtain for her and of course I said yes – I love any excuse to sew! Plus, this was much easier than building thirteen jasmine trellises for us and both of my grandmas, which ironically was another project to enhance privacy.

This bathroom curtain is a very easy project that provides a lot of functionality to the space. My grandma was ecstatic to hang her new curtain and said it makes the bathroom look finished.

Continue below for the super simple tutorial! All you need is about thirty minutes of time and you can have a custom curtain for the bathroom.


SUPPLIES


HOW TO MAKE A BATHROOM CURTAIN:

PIN + CUT THE FABRIC

With the curtain panel hanging up, determine the length you want the curtain to be by pinning up the excess. This method allows you to get a visual of the finished length before cutting or sewing.

Once you have determine the length, you now need to determine what size of hem. We decided on a broad 6 inch hemline which was the same as the window ledge depth. The 6 inch hem would be in excess of the window measurement to allow for some gathering at the bottom of the curtain.

how to measure a curtain to hem

Find your measurements:

For example, the window is 46 inches tall + 12.5 inches for the hem (6 inches + 6 inches + 1/2 inch).

Next, measure out the desired length starting from the top of the curtain and mark where the cut needs to be in several spots across the panel. Cut off the excess.

IRON THE HEM

Fold over the bottom edge 1/2 inch to the backside of the curtain and press. Then fold the bottom edge again – this time folding over 6 inches – and press. This hides the raw edges within the hem and leaves us to work with clean edges.

ironing a curtain hem

This is when I loved using my acrylic ruler. I simply measured where my fold needed to be, slid the ruler out from underneath the fold, and pressed. The ruler provided me with a straight 6 inch span to press and I repeated across the width of the curtain.

Pin the hem in place.

pinning a curtain hem

SEW THE HEM

I chose to quickly sew a zigzag stitch down the raw edge of the fabric to help prevent the fabric from fraying. This step is not necessary, but something I chose to do as a precaution since I had not worked with this fabric before and did not know what to expect in regards to fraying.

Adjust your stitch length to match that of the existing stitches on the curtain. I like to test the stitch length on a scrap piece of fabric to avoid ripping out the thread from my project.

With the inside of the curtain facing up so you can see the folded hem, sew a few of reinforcement stitches. Continue sewing along the folded edge and finish off with a few more reinforcement stitches.

A reinforcement stitch is sewing backwards and forwards over the same stitch. I typically do anywhere from 3 to 5 reinforcement stitches together.

how to sew a curtain hem

HANG THE CURTAIN

Iron or steam your finished curtain. If you have a bathroom window like this one, use a tension rod to quickly and easily install the curtain. Hang and enjoy your newfound privacy!

how to hem a curtain, how to make a bathroom curtain

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Comment below or tag us on social media to share your latest sewing project with us! Happy Sewing!

Filed under: BATHROOM, BEDROOM + BATHROOMTagged with: , , ,